How to do Tapestry crochet – Pictures and a Free Coaster Pattern

Tapestry Crochet is a trending topic! It’s a crochet technique that never goes out of style and creates the most beautiful patterns and designs.

I was looking for something special to create for my sister’s thirtieth birthday, and I fell in love with Tapestry crochet. I think I like it even more than amigurumi. (Can you believe it?)

You can use this technique in all kinds of crochet projects like blankets, pillows, bags, baskets, and many more.

I loved learning this technique and will share useful tips and tricks with you below!

This tutorial also includes a Free Pattern. You can make an adorable coaster with a heart in the middle.

Tapestry crochet is a technique that is used all over the world. If you’re familiar with the basics of crochet stitches, then I am certain, you can learn this great technique too. You can make gorgeous patterns that look great on the outside as well as the inside. The Tapestry crochet technique is reversible!

Supplies:

• 3.00mm Crochet Hook (USA – D)
• #4 Aran Yarn in two colors (I used Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran) – You can use different types of yarn, just adjust the size of the hook.
• Yarn Needle

Aran weight yarn is sometimes known as heavy worsted weight or 10ply. The recommended hook size is 5 mm, but for tapestry crochet, I suggest you use a smaller size. For this project, you can also use a 3.5 mm hook (USA – E).

The Paintbox Yarns are amazing for Tapestry Crochet. The choice of colors on offer in Paintbox Yarns’s Simply Aran range is astonishing! This soft, yet durable, yarn is fantastic value for money, and with 60 colors to choose from you’ll be sure to find your perfect shade!

Abbreviations:

• CH ~ Chain
• SC ~ Single Crochet
• SL ST ~ Slip Stitch
• RS ~ Right Side
• WS ~ Wrong Side
• MC ~ Main Color
• CC ~ Contrast Color
• ST(S) ~ Stitch(es)
• FO ~ Finish Off

Gauge:

4″ x4″ square (10×10 cm) /3 mm-(D)Hook/ Single Crochet/ #4 Yarn

• 20 Rows x 18 Stitches

Size:

• 4” x 3.5” (10×9 cm) Rectangle

Notes:

• • • • Every block of the graph represents one SC.
      • I suggest using a smaller hook than recommended to minimalize the show-through of the contrasting color.
      • This pattern includes written instructions and the graph.
      • You start your work at the right bottom side.
      • At the end of the row, when you crochet on the WRONG site, you carry your contrasting color yarns in front of the single crochet, and when you crochet on the RIGHT side, you do it in the back. (Pictures in the step 3)

       

      

      Step 1 – Introducing the Contrasting color:

      You start your work with the foundation chain. You chain one more than the number of sc in the graph. For example, if the pattern requires 20 sc, you chain 21.

      You introduce the contrasting color (CC) here [1] and make your first sc in the second chain from the hook. It may look a little tricky, but when you make the first few SC [2], then it will go smoothly. You SC over the CC. It is essential to introduce CC in the first row so that the thickness of the final product is the same all over. [3]
      

      Step 2 – Changing the color:

      Continue making main color (MC) stitches until you come to the SC just before the first color change.

      Work that last MC SC until you have two loops on your hook [5]. Bring your MC forward over the top of the CC and complete the ST with the CC by yarning under and pulling CC through the two loops on your hook [6]. You make the next SC normally with orange yarn over the yellow [7].
      

      Now continue working with the CC yarn the number of SC required in the same manner as illustrated previously.

      When you come to the SC just before the color change back to the MC, Work that SC until you have two loops on your hook. Bring your CC forward over the top of the MC and complete the ST with the MC by yarning under and pulling MC through the two loops on your hook.

      Continue reading that row of the graph or written instructions, making color changes as necessary, until you reach the end of the row.

      Notes:

      • You start your color change on the SC just before the color change.
      • Remember to maintain tension. When pulling through with the new color, the stitch you just completed will lose tension. Be sure to correct it before moving on.
      • Be sure that you remember to yarn under when pulling through with the new yarn.
      • When working with the two or more colors at the same time, it’s essential to check both sides of your work periodically throughout the row to see if there is any bunching or puckering. I suggest you do this right before the color change. If you see the non-dominant yarn sticking out, give it a gentle tug and then gently stretch out the row again to even out the stitches and smooth out the row.
      • Remember that each row of the graph alternates between following it {Right to Left} and {Left to Right}. Be sure to stitch accordingly. I like to highlight each row or SC in the written instructions as I complete it so that I can easily visualize which SC is following next.
      • I like to count my stitches right before the color change to check if the number is correct. It is a little time consuming, but I think it is better than to do it all again.

      Step 3 – The end of the row:

      At the end of your row, CH 1 [11] and turn your work using only the yarn with the color you start your next row. Then carry the CC under the first ST [12] of the next row and continue onward as specified in the graph. [13]

      Throughout the project, be sure to carry your CC around on only the WS.

      In the example, the red yarn is visible on both edges as I carried it into the next row. [10]
      

      The finished project looks nicer if the ˝carry over˝ yarn is only on one side. You will hide it under the border later.

      

      Or, if you are making a pillow, it will hide once you sew the two panels together.

      Step 4 – The Pattern:

      

      Here are the written instructions:

      First you chain 21, you start your SC in the second chain from the hook and introduce the red yarn.

      ← Row 1 [RS]: (yellow) x 20
      → Row 2 [WS]: (yellow) x 20 (you start crocheting the Wrong Site, that means you carry your red yarn in front of the work. – See step 3)
      ← Row 3 [RS]: (yellow) x 9, (red) x 2, (yellow) x 9 (You start the Right Site, you carry your red yarn in the back.)
      → Row 4 [WS]: (yellow) x 8, (red) x 4, (yellow) x 8
      ← Row 5 [RS]: (yellow) x 7, (red) x 6, (yellow) x 7
      → Row 6 [WS]: (yellow) x 6, (red) x 8, (yellow) x 6
      ← Row 7 [RS]: (yellow) x 5, (red) x 10, (yellow) x 5
      → Row 8 [WS]: (yellow) x 4, (red) x 12, (yellow) x 4
      ← Row 9 [RS]: (yellow) x 3, (red) x 14, (yellow) x 3
      → Row 10 [WS]: (yellow) x 2, (red) x 16, (yellow) x 2
      ← Row 11 [RS]: yellow, (red) x 18, yellow
      → Row 12 [WS]: yellow, (red) x 18, yellow
      ← Row 13 [RS]: yellow, (red) x 18, yellow
      → Row 14 [WS]: yellow, (red) x 18, yellow
      ← Row 15 [RS]: yellow, (red) x 18, yellow
      → Row 16 [WS]: yellow, (red) x 18, yellow
      ← Row 17 [RS]: (yellow) x 2, (red) x 7, (yellow) x 2, (red) x 7, (yellow) x 2
      → Row 18 [WS]: (yellow) x 3, (red) x 5, (yellow) x 4, (red) x 5, (yellow) x 3
      ← Row 19 [RS]: (yellow) x 20
      → Row 20 [WS]: (yellow) x 20

      Congratulations, the hardest part is over!

      Now all you have to do is make a border. It is not necessary, but it gives a pretty finished look. In the picture below you see it without the border.

      I have made a Crab stitch around it. It is also called The reverse single crochet.
      
      

      Step 5 – The border:

      I always like to start and finish my patterns with one or two rows of the SC in the MC. When you complete the design, it is safe to cut the CC yarn. It will not get loose.

      With the MC, you crochet one round of SC all the way around. At the sides, you put one SC in each row, and at the corners, you crochet three SC in the same stitch.

      When you come all the way around you SL ST into the first SC, and FO. But only if you want to make the Crab stitch with a different color.

      I want to make the Reverse single crochet with CC.

      The actual mechanics of a reverse single crochet stitch are the same as for regular single crochet — except in reverse.

      Instead of working from right to left, you work from Left to right. It creates a somewhat twisted, rounded edge that’s good for making a simple finished edge for your work.

      Be sure to have the right side of your work facing you.

      • Insert the hook, from front to back, in the next stitch to the right. Yarn over (yo) and draw the yarn through the stitch. (This step is similar to how you work regular single crochet — only backward.)
      • Yarn over and pull the yarn through the two loops on the hook.

      One reverse single crochet is complete.

      Repeat the preceding steps in each stitch across the row.

      To complete your crab stitch border, stop when you’ve reached the stitch you started in. Instead of adding a crab stitch in that starting stitch, slip stitch into the same stitch you started in.

      Cut your yarn and pull through. When you weave in your ends, you’ll want to weave the tail through the stitches to the right.

      

      For more detailed instructions with pictures, read How to crochet a Crab Stitch – Step by Step Tutorial

      I hope you find the article useful.

      You can Pin it for later.
      

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  Katja